One of the Oldest living cities in the world; Varanasi
Varanasi (aka Kashi, Benares, Baranasi) is wonderful! The bus ride to Jnansi was rather tedious and rough but we got it done. Luckily no one had to use the washroom however because the bus doesn't stop for a few hours! From Jnansi we took a night train to Varanasi and, surprise surprise, it was late. We got on (with some difficulty due to a very large box we had to carry...) and found our bunks. We manage to communicate with those around us so that Logan and I could sleep on nearby bunks instead of further! We locked our things up and had a decent sleep, it's amazing how smooth the ride is. It was about 10 hours I believe so we pulled into Varanasi around 12 noon. WE hitched a tuk-tuk and we to our pre-reserved Hotel India, very nice, but unfortunately everyone thinks we're rich because we're staying there. We managed to get rid of our large burden at the post office (finally!!!) even through we had to part with some hefty bills. But hey, as the Indians say,it's done, it's over, so forget it and be happy. And that we are!! PS: on that note, if a package arrives soon at Logan's house, wait till we get back to open it...it is top-secret!!
First thing we did in Varanasi was meet this very nice young Indian man, Raj. We had a tuk-tuk and showed us some good cheap restaurants. It's so nice to eat for under 200Rs again! The next day we ventured 30 minutes out of town on a bad road with the tuk-tuk (i swear my breasts will be down to my ankles by the time I return!!) to nearby Sarnath; the place of the Buddha's first teaching. Among the buddhist temples there was a Tibetan one, a Thai one, a Japanese one and burmese too! There was a huge park filled with ruins from the ancient monasteries that were setup after the Buddha's teaching there. This is where (for those who know some Buddhism) the Buddha first spoke of the Four Noble Truths and the Eightfold path.
There was a huge stupa on the spot where this happened. Unfortunately, like many things here, it is under reno and so pictures weren't so good. (It is just an old pile of bricks anyway). We fed some deer some sort of cucumber tomato veggie and I had to stop Logan from eating it himself a few times! After a nice museum of ancient (1-10th Century AD) carvings and architecture as well as many Buddhist temples, we saw the Bodhi tree, with the Buddha's teaching in about 20 languages all around it. But, hold up wait, it isn't THE bodhi tree were Buddha attained enlightenment but rather a clone of a twig that King Ashoka's daughter took from the real Bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya. So here is a twice cloned tree and people love it!! Oh the enthusiasm is never lacking here! Back to Varanasi we got coned into seeing a silk factory and then their showroom. It's such a formula I tell ya!! We got away with some free drinks and some cheap stuff. After a glorious meal we headed down to the ghats, the stairs that lead directly into the large river, Mother Ganga.
We observed a ceremony (as it was a festival in honor of the god Durga, incarnation of Shiva) and then raj took up to a cremation ghat. We witnessed about 6 dead bodies burnt about 5 meters away. The heat was intense but in that moment you feel like you are watching something so sacred that you can't walk away, not that we wanted to anyway. They get the untouchables (usually young, dirty children) to build a pyre and then set the body (on a bamboo stretcher) on top. Depending on what fabric the individual died wearing and how rich they were, they are covered in silk or cotton and such then set on fire. And hey, it doesn't stink one bit. Raj says that's because Shiva blessed this ghat (2 creamtion ghats out of 80 ghats) and so it doesn't smell. He explained how the holy men are not burnt but rather sunk with some stones (along with those who died from leprosy and those who were pregnant) but those that died from Cobra bites (cobra is a sign of Shiva) are put on a floating banana tree and sent away on the river to be dealt with directly by Shiva. Wonder how often that happens...some shores must get a fair bit of dead bodies. The 2 cremation ghats in India run 24/7 with new bodies burnt every 3-4 hours, I guess that's how long it takes. When a body is burning, one of the fire keepers hits the skull 3-4 times to open it as the skull takes a long time to burn if it isn't opened first. Throughout the 3 hours, they poke and pry at the body to get it to burn correctly. When it is done, they take the remaining "strong" body part (a rib piece from men, a hip bone piece from women) and throw it into the Ganga. Then, the next body comes. What an amazing sight. Women of the deseased are not allowed to witness the burning as they apparently feel such grief that they'd throw themselves on their husbands pyre. This is called satee and was outlawed many years ago, but still happens to this day. Being a widow here is a great burden. It's unfortunate that certain aspects of the long-gone caste system are still in place and making life difficult for some Indians. The following evening (I apologize but I can't seem to remember things chronologically) we took a boat ride up the ganga to witness the end of the Durga-fest where they throw all their statues of Durga into the Ganga. What a sight. Dancing, music, chanting, shouting...so crazy! They sure party hard I think.
The next day, so yesterday I think, we ventured out and found the pilgrims book house...so nice. We got some more books and spend alot of time there having chai and reading books by the fountain. After our stint in fancy hotel india, we found a guest house at Rs.100 per night...with attached washroom...what a deal! The food is also cheap and delicious. However, I was awakened this morning first by a fellow tourist being very sick in the next room and then by a ridiculous amount of birds yelling at us around 7am. Oh well, that is life. Time to start the day. Get this, best breakfast ever, veggie omelette, banana porridge, 2 slices of jam and toast and tea, all for Rs.50!! Life is good, maybe we'll have enough money afterall. This is making me hungry...but we're always hungry.
During our meal an old man approached us and offered his massage services, and, having nothing to do during the hot afternoon hours, we accepted. Next thing we knew we found ourselves in just our underwear bottoms (me too!) receiving an intense full-body oil massage. Unexpected, but wonderful indeed. And very respectful of my female body parts, nice change from many of the men I've seen here who act as if they've never previously interracted with a female. Seriously, every man here is like 14. Even Raj, our 24-year-old friend was asking tips on how to get a girlfriend. Ahaha, he made me promise to bring you, Danielle, if you're still single when/if I return to India. haha.cute.creepy at first,but all in good fun.
We did some more wandering around and found this internet place, maybe we'll have dinner in their restaurant as well.
We thinking tomorrow morning we're going to wake up at sunrise (530am) and catch a boat and go North on the Ganga and see the other cremation ghat...but it is bad luck to take photos of this. Sunrise is good for photos, so I'm sure it'll be fun to catch people in the Puja in the scared river! Then it's off to the Hanuman temple (where we're sure to see more monkeys) and then we'll chill out and get ready to move on. Early morning of the 7th we're catching a bus to Kathmandu, Nepal. Longest ride we'll ever have I think. At least we get a free hotel halfway through it. Nepal is going to be so awesome. All the Indians are jealous that we have included this in our travel plans. Maybe we'll do some trekking, stay in an ashram or just soak up the vibes...who knows.
So health wise: Logan is doing very well, his hair is getting long and the hasn't shaved since he left...so you can imagine...
I'm feeling real good too, showered today (like 5th or 6th since Calgary;ya I know, that's gross) and i've never felt better. My nose is bit congested but I've convinced that if I take it easy, by body can battle anything. We're both eating alot more these days so that's good and we're dealing with the heat better. Although I must say the heat in Uttar Pradash if much more moist than in Rajasthan...we always keep a sweat rag handy!!
It's strange, I don't really feel homesick, but logan and I both dream about Calgary alot and especially about our families. (Logan says Kalan, his brother, is in every single dream he has, usually doing something silly) So yes, that says something.
I think that's all for now, I'll be calling home my time Monday morning (your time sunday night) hopefully.
Much love everyone
First thing we did in Varanasi was meet this very nice young Indian man, Raj. We had a tuk-tuk and showed us some good cheap restaurants. It's so nice to eat for under 200Rs again! The next day we ventured 30 minutes out of town on a bad road with the tuk-tuk (i swear my breasts will be down to my ankles by the time I return!!) to nearby Sarnath; the place of the Buddha's first teaching. Among the buddhist temples there was a Tibetan one, a Thai one, a Japanese one and burmese too! There was a huge park filled with ruins from the ancient monasteries that were setup after the Buddha's teaching there. This is where (for those who know some Buddhism) the Buddha first spoke of the Four Noble Truths and the Eightfold path.
There was a huge stupa on the spot where this happened. Unfortunately, like many things here, it is under reno and so pictures weren't so good. (It is just an old pile of bricks anyway). We fed some deer some sort of cucumber tomato veggie and I had to stop Logan from eating it himself a few times! After a nice museum of ancient (1-10th Century AD) carvings and architecture as well as many Buddhist temples, we saw the Bodhi tree, with the Buddha's teaching in about 20 languages all around it. But, hold up wait, it isn't THE bodhi tree were Buddha attained enlightenment but rather a clone of a twig that King Ashoka's daughter took from the real Bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya. So here is a twice cloned tree and people love it!! Oh the enthusiasm is never lacking here! Back to Varanasi we got coned into seeing a silk factory and then their showroom. It's such a formula I tell ya!! We got away with some free drinks and some cheap stuff. After a glorious meal we headed down to the ghats, the stairs that lead directly into the large river, Mother Ganga.
We observed a ceremony (as it was a festival in honor of the god Durga, incarnation of Shiva) and then raj took up to a cremation ghat. We witnessed about 6 dead bodies burnt about 5 meters away. The heat was intense but in that moment you feel like you are watching something so sacred that you can't walk away, not that we wanted to anyway. They get the untouchables (usually young, dirty children) to build a pyre and then set the body (on a bamboo stretcher) on top. Depending on what fabric the individual died wearing and how rich they were, they are covered in silk or cotton and such then set on fire. And hey, it doesn't stink one bit. Raj says that's because Shiva blessed this ghat (2 creamtion ghats out of 80 ghats) and so it doesn't smell. He explained how the holy men are not burnt but rather sunk with some stones (along with those who died from leprosy and those who were pregnant) but those that died from Cobra bites (cobra is a sign of Shiva) are put on a floating banana tree and sent away on the river to be dealt with directly by Shiva. Wonder how often that happens...some shores must get a fair bit of dead bodies. The 2 cremation ghats in India run 24/7 with new bodies burnt every 3-4 hours, I guess that's how long it takes. When a body is burning, one of the fire keepers hits the skull 3-4 times to open it as the skull takes a long time to burn if it isn't opened first. Throughout the 3 hours, they poke and pry at the body to get it to burn correctly. When it is done, they take the remaining "strong" body part (a rib piece from men, a hip bone piece from women) and throw it into the Ganga. Then, the next body comes. What an amazing sight. Women of the deseased are not allowed to witness the burning as they apparently feel such grief that they'd throw themselves on their husbands pyre. This is called satee and was outlawed many years ago, but still happens to this day. Being a widow here is a great burden. It's unfortunate that certain aspects of the long-gone caste system are still in place and making life difficult for some Indians. The following evening (I apologize but I can't seem to remember things chronologically) we took a boat ride up the ganga to witness the end of the Durga-fest where they throw all their statues of Durga into the Ganga. What a sight. Dancing, music, chanting, shouting...so crazy! They sure party hard I think.
The next day, so yesterday I think, we ventured out and found the pilgrims book house...so nice. We got some more books and spend alot of time there having chai and reading books by the fountain. After our stint in fancy hotel india, we found a guest house at Rs.100 per night...with attached washroom...what a deal! The food is also cheap and delicious. However, I was awakened this morning first by a fellow tourist being very sick in the next room and then by a ridiculous amount of birds yelling at us around 7am. Oh well, that is life. Time to start the day. Get this, best breakfast ever, veggie omelette, banana porridge, 2 slices of jam and toast and tea, all for Rs.50!! Life is good, maybe we'll have enough money afterall. This is making me hungry...but we're always hungry.
During our meal an old man approached us and offered his massage services, and, having nothing to do during the hot afternoon hours, we accepted. Next thing we knew we found ourselves in just our underwear bottoms (me too!) receiving an intense full-body oil massage. Unexpected, but wonderful indeed. And very respectful of my female body parts, nice change from many of the men I've seen here who act as if they've never previously interracted with a female. Seriously, every man here is like 14. Even Raj, our 24-year-old friend was asking tips on how to get a girlfriend. Ahaha, he made me promise to bring you, Danielle, if you're still single when/if I return to India. haha.cute.creepy at first,but all in good fun.
We did some more wandering around and found this internet place, maybe we'll have dinner in their restaurant as well.
We thinking tomorrow morning we're going to wake up at sunrise (530am) and catch a boat and go North on the Ganga and see the other cremation ghat...but it is bad luck to take photos of this. Sunrise is good for photos, so I'm sure it'll be fun to catch people in the Puja in the scared river! Then it's off to the Hanuman temple (where we're sure to see more monkeys) and then we'll chill out and get ready to move on. Early morning of the 7th we're catching a bus to Kathmandu, Nepal. Longest ride we'll ever have I think. At least we get a free hotel halfway through it. Nepal is going to be so awesome. All the Indians are jealous that we have included this in our travel plans. Maybe we'll do some trekking, stay in an ashram or just soak up the vibes...who knows.
So health wise: Logan is doing very well, his hair is getting long and the hasn't shaved since he left...so you can imagine...
I'm feeling real good too, showered today (like 5th or 6th since Calgary;ya I know, that's gross) and i've never felt better. My nose is bit congested but I've convinced that if I take it easy, by body can battle anything. We're both eating alot more these days so that's good and we're dealing with the heat better. Although I must say the heat in Uttar Pradash if much more moist than in Rajasthan...we always keep a sweat rag handy!!
It's strange, I don't really feel homesick, but logan and I both dream about Calgary alot and especially about our families. (Logan says Kalan, his brother, is in every single dream he has, usually doing something silly) So yes, that says something.
I think that's all for now, I'll be calling home my time Monday morning (your time sunday night) hopefully.
Much love everyone
HI DOE
A Varanasi blog is one of the blogs I was excited to read from you, since it is one of the oldest cities, as you said, and its one of the sacred cities of the hindu religion too.
Its awesome to hear about every single detail of your trip, as they are very interesting, so keep at it!
Since you didn't mention your health very much at all in this blog, I hope you're feeling good and so is Logan.
Oh and you've been in India for almost a month now! ACCOMPLISHMENT ACCOMPLISHMENT.
Back here in Cowtown everything's been chill, no snow yet though, but we've had rain and its SUPER DRY.
We're hosting the Thanksgiving party this weekend as well, i'm sure there'll be a few "WHERE'S DOE?"
Anyway, I just found this video this morning and I think it's cute, so if you can view it do it!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vr3x_RRJdd4&NR
Much love,
-Martine!
Posted by
Anonymous |
9:32 AM
Hey Doe,
Great blog! You always manage to write something that is both fascinating and funny. I still tell random people about your blog and at lot of people are following it, even though they never post any comments. Speaking of which, an old friend that I worked with at Telus (Preet) has family in Northern India and is following your blog. Let me know if you want address info (so you can stay with them) and I'll tell her to post a comment to you!
Haha, so I have a pre-arranged date with a 24 year old Indian man if/when I go to India? Good to know I have a back-up plan in case I get bored of these local boys heehee. ;) Just kidding!
By the way, isn't it strange to see how mature Martine sounds in her comments - I feel like the little sister here! I watched that little movie Martine mentioned, and it got me all emotional. A hug is such a simple yet powerful thing. So I'm sending you and Logan a big giant virtual hug - just because I can ;)
Take care and stay healthy!
Love,
Da
Posted by
Anonymous |
4:29 PM